" village poet: 04/01/2003 - 05/01/2003

Saturday, April 19, 2003

Jonathan Raban: The greatest gulf reminds of the standard of journalism that ought to prevail but rarely does. I wonder what the widely held view of 'The Arab World' is in the US? As with many places I have some cultured, sophisticated and knowledgeable american friends; but I have, indeed in major universities, been asked questions by professors about Europe and the UK that revealed stunning ignorance...I dont think any of us will forget being asked in one unversity what language Rhodri and I were speaking together-was it Yugoslav-whatever that language might be!-not even Serbo-Croat! But of course that was before Bosnia.
I wonder too what the generally held view of 'democracy' actually is. The ideologies of capital accumulation are after all not coterminous with democracy.

Anyway lighten up Thomas. Life in the orient where there are no such razor edges to be walked and plutocratic nepotism reigns

The heat continues oppressive. Cannot think straight really!

However as I have said we seem on course for the great retour!

The Visa francais is still causing us some problems.
It is not so much that it is all such a complicated game that is annoying but that the rules and laws keep changing and no-one can actually keep up with it. I have recently read that actually all of this is unnecessary and that if you are married to an EU citizen all your residential status derives from them.

Indeed on the French government website is the delicious statement that as the wife of an EU citizen wishing to stay in France:
" You should apply for a Visa de Court Sejour, never mind how long you plan to stay!"

While of course there are then pages of stuff about whether you should apply for a visa de court sejour, long sejour, circulation or Schengen with or without multiple entries.............etc!

Elodie is heavily into Shoes.
She now has 2 squeaky pairs, one green and yellow, the other with eyes. £1.20 a pair. Should we import them? She wakes and imperiously summons shoes to be donned. Then totters around aided or not variously. She walked the whole way up to the main road with me this morning squealing with delight. However continuous aid is necessary!
And Teeth. the two she has she now tries to show off by baring her gums in a most simian manner!


I do not know what season of the year it is really. I suppose middle summer. In the Chinese year it is half way between Great Rain and Grain Full. Guyu and Xiaoman. But I suspect those must be Northern China seasons. Anyway no sign of the great rain which is supposed to follow Songkran!

The garden is dripping with mangoes and lychees. The mangoes are a virulent green like a frog and when opened a vivid and rather electric yellow. Not at all like those green and pink things from Brazil that you get in Tesco. I am planning mango chutneys to put Sharwoods and Mrs Balbi to shame!

The lychees are bright red and a bit prickly. Even E wont put them in her mouth, though she munches them when they are popped open. They are quite small-the size of large strawberry so I suppose the ones in tins must be super-lychees. But these are sharp and sweet. MM Anyway at least it means she eats something other than rice soup and pork satay!

The european contribution to this profusion is 2 tomatoes which are growing surely if a little slowly! The courgettes got some horrible blight, the oregano is nowhere to be seen; but the mint thrives!
I think as I gey older I am having difficulty 'seeing' Thailand or anywhere else. Coleridge writes somewhere about getting older and he says 'I see, not feel, how beautiful it is.' I am not sure I even see any more.

Or maybe I am turning Chinese

I have often wondered whether to try and do the almost impossible which is to describe the anarchic solipsism of Thai daily life. I do not think I can. It infuses every individual action. As it happens I usually sleep alone, which I do not like-it is just that K and E sleep on the floor! Again as does everyone else. Only the rich sleep on beds and mattresses. I wake alone, wait for E to squawk in my ear, play with her, shower alone, go to the market and buy food for myself. I do not any longer ask anyone else what they might like to eat. I eat my breakfast alone. Everyone else in this and every house appears to do the same. People are forever sidling off to be discovered feeding their faces alone.. Then, if there is work, we go and do it.. Almost no conversations or communications take place here. Which, of course leads to endless misunderstandings . They drive and walk in the same singleminded entirely self obsessed way ..which probably goes some way top explaining the traffic statistics below. I have wondered if this is something to do with me being european in the midst of this,, but I think not.

They think I am mad for talking all the time to E. I remonstrate quite frequently and say..'Talk to Elodie.' This is considered mad. Eventually someone said to me. What are you worried about? She will learn to talk. Yes, I said, but what kind of language? Blank stare. But then they also think I am mad for picking her up, cuddling her and even playing with her. Partly it is a guy thing...guys do not do it and partly well..I am bats! Actually most of the children I see live in a state of emotional, linguistic and sensory deprivation by the criteria of home.

K is considered to have been tainted by this foreign madness as she breastfeeds E. This is considered an outrageous intrusion on the mother's individuality. I have not seen ONE other breastfed child, ever! Everyone asks and a look of horror smudges faces when told she is not bottle fed! The proof, to everyone, of our stupidity is that at 12 months she is 7 kilos whereas the ideal weight for a Thai baby at that age is considered to be c.about 20K. The children, and not a few adults are as obese in the main as Americans ..less so here than in Bangkok

My nice author Mr Austin Coates , he of the Myself a Mandarin fame.. comments on this seeing and hearing problem.
He asserts that if, say after a short car journey, you asked a european what he saw he would probably come up with two or three memories, but if you asked a chinese he would say truly he had seen nothing. He explains it as total self absorption.. I am not sure. What is the explanation of this? I asked K about the not wearing of helmets... apropos of the extensive road deaths. She said; ' Oh you cannot tell Thai people what to do and anyway they cannot listen..'
Cannot? I queried. Oh yes not don't listen... cannot!
So they cannot listen and also they cannot ask questions or ask for information...result: a sort of hiatus in life!
The saga of the apartment cheque was a good example of this.
Me: Where is the money?
K. Dunno
Well why don't you go and ask the bank?
Cannot
Why
Oh just be patient
But the bank said it would be a week to clear the cheque. It is a week already
If I go and ask the bank they will think me rude.
Me:Um ..Well I think it is rude of them a. Not to transfer the money and b. Not to tell you where it is or when it will come.
K. Oh you are too impatient to live in Thailand
Me. Too true
So K goes to the bank. No sign of the money.
Against all her instincts, with large foreigner glowering she tremulously asks why the money has not been transferred.
One lady cashier, one brusque youth in startling floral shirt and one v. fat Chinese manager dripping gold confer about this. Much flurrying of papers and opening of ledgers.
" You have to wait one week"
Me. She has waited one week already
Silence
Repetition by boorish foreigner
Me. Why is no-one listening?
Eventually :One week more
Why?
One week.
Me. Yes you said that already. Why?
Me. Where is the cheque. Why don't you just give it back to her if there is a problem and we will take it to Bangkok?
K. Oh my head hurts. Stop asking questions
Me. Makes the outrageous 4 days to clear a cheque in the UK look like the three minute mile.
We wait.
30 minutes go by.

Me. What are we waiting for? Everyone is busy doing other things
K. Just wait. They are checking!!

(While all this is going on there are Chinese matrons in their late 50s and 60s depositing and withdrawing sums between £3000 and £10,000-the most I saw- in cash, pulling it out of and stuffing it into cheap plastic handbags and cruising out into the road. Muggers paradise bro!......there is a policeman on 'guard' in the bank but I have yet to see him awake and another outside who spends his time explaining the intricacies of the ATM to bemused peasants...who nonetheless still manage to get a grand out of it! One of them asked K the other day to put her own ie K's card into the ATM and get some money from the peasant's account. K explained that this was not possible. Why not? Um well this card is for my money and your card is for your money. Yes but I can't remember the PIN number ..so you do it for me!)

"Nong", calls the manager........ie 'Young Lady'
Your money is here
Oh really? Where was it?
Oh well you have a Bangkok bank account and the money is in the bank in Bangkok but you cant get it for another week if you are 'UP COUNTRY'..' what on the road to Mandalay eh!.......this a country that has an ATM Pool and as I have already observed allows you to transfer money between any bank account at any bank through the ATM in seconds! ....Welcome to the Thai Raj........

But we have specially transferred it. That will be £6 please! ie. several days wages!
I see K ready to say oh well if it is going to cost £6 I will wait a week.
She, of course, belongs to that admirably thrifty set of persons that will spend 100 Baht to save 5 Baht and believes that no garment costing more than £3.50 is worth purchasing. As a result she has two large wardrobes stuffed to the brim with shrunken, discolored, unravelled, mis-shapen and generally unwearable clothes!
No No No!!!!!

I was trying (a while ago before I was waylaid by the bank) to get onto the real effects of this anarchy on driving!
They walk and drive as though there was no one else on the road..there are of course, mostly, no pavements; and where there are they are covered in hawkers stalls, extensions of shops and various poles and pylons. These are also to be found strategically placed several feet into the carriageway and are thus another frequent source of accidents

But at the same time as they walk and drive they afford a wide berth to everyone and everything. Very rarely see people brush each other or barge into each other so a stroll is more pleasant than a trip to the Kings Road or Waitrose let alone a tube station.

No indicator lights are, of course, ever used, so people wait interminably not able to guess whether the oncoming traffic is oncoming or turning off and they flash lights to let you know they are bearing down on you and get out of the way..not to offer a passage! Like the good old days of priorite a droit bicycles and various machined contraptions surge out of alleyways into main roads without looking or slowing; old ladies are regularly to be seen trudging down Sawangkhalok main street somewhere near the centre white line with the traffic weaving around them. Anyone wishing to turn right will drive on the wrong side of the road for as much as 200 metres to avoid actually crossing the carriageway!...result,, more carnage!!
The basic attitude appears to be: I am living my life and doing what I want so f*** you. But of course people are far politer to each other than at home!

And now I just take all this for granted.

Of course all that just means I have as limited and blinkered a view of 'The Oriental' as apparently do Messieurs Wolfowitz, Bush and Rumsfeld of 'The Arab'. However I am not invading Thailand and thinking of turning it into a colonial experiment in Demawcrassy. That has already been done by tourists, a chinese population explosion and and western capital!

Friday, April 18, 2003

Thursday, April 17, 2003

There are parts of the world whereThis story might be "missed"

Wednesday, April 16, 2003

If these were figures for the Easter weekend in Britain or France...what would happen? Road carnage claims under-15s as toll soars

Anyway we have survived.!!
Chugged out to the main troad to watch the mayhem. Elodie in very high spirits wishing to dance with every passing group of inebriates and waving her wrists in most authentic Thai dancing mode.
High spot of the parade of floats expalined why Saddam could not be found by the US...he was here in Sawangkhalok riding a jeep amidst the flower bedecked maidens....photos in a day or two. He had a log conversation with the well soaked traffic cop-face smeared with gold and alumina powder, decked in flowers with his radio in a 7-11 bag. I particularly liked the float from the Department of Ground Water Control (sic) which was a tractor towing a mega sound system powered by a petrol generator... the whole covered in black plastic like some punk shop. I think they must be the sewage dept.

Tuesday, April 08, 2003

Well
Here is a post-modern posting.
Some people will have read about Andre Breton's STUFF................ others not! When I used to be an active book dealer we used to play this game of WHO??? is still alive and who dead.....Actually it did not matter....the issue was.....where were their books!! All kinds of people ...editors, critics, friends, enemies managed to accumulate immensely valuable collections of works.........let us get our paws on them.........One person I knew confessed to having tossed the majority of Gertrude Stein's and Nancy Cunard's stuff down a well......irrecoverable I thought...?? Though strangely a lot of Ms Cunard's correspondence surfaced later in Los Angeles so maybe it was not that deep a well!! Anyway The Hours Press had its DAY
Here I am feeling v. hacked off in Muang Thai. The continuing saga of the Apartment Cheque has something to do with this,,,,,,,,,,,,!!Today's question is......Is it better to be Rich in Thailand or POOR in France......you know what IIIIIIII think!!!!!! Today??No??

Wednesday, April 02, 2003

These are rather strange 'limbo' days.

And this is a RANT

Well everyone does it why not me??????

I think we both thought we had pretty much worked out that we would move to Chiang Mai and buy a house, send the girl to school..and then..maybe..in a few..ie 10 years come to Europe.

Then, when the child was injured, and as it looked as though she needed more immediate care, we thought we would come to Europe more quickly.

Now we are not so sure. We are both very suspicious of early surgery. She is so little..still only 6.5 kilos..that we both worry about her ability to survive a major operation.

Better alive with a colostomy than dead.

And

The whole visa problem winds me up.

Sure There must be a few people each year who conduct unlikely marriages in order to try and get to the UK. I particularly like the injunction that says: 'if you have more than one wife, only one wife will be allowed to apply for UK residence.' !! Says it all.....All the forms are written on the basis that you are trying to cheat/lie. Questions like: when did you last meet your sponsor...ie husband/wife... sponsor????? Oh when we got up and he went to work...oh he is standing beside me...oh about 10 years ago in a brothel in Djibouti...what!?

And to come to the UK and then go to France!! Alors!

Must spend six months of the first year in the UK to apply for residence. Not automatic, of course. Probably have to join a queue in Croydon for a week and then answer some more questions about your husband's favourite toothpaste.

If you have a Schengen visa you can go to France for 90 days, but cannot apply for another Schengen visa until another 90 days have passed. All visas must be applied for in Thailand, unless you have resided in the UK for a year.

A French visa de long sejour requires a medical report. The report must be carried out within three months of arrival in France. Therefore application for visa de long sejour cannot be made six months in advance. And of course if it is three months in advance it must be made in Thailand...........etc.

Why do we want to go to the UK..Well we are beginning to think this is a very good question.......

Last time we arrived at Heathrow a 'colored' immigration officer, with a far from perfect grasp of English, tried to suggest, with no evidence, that K and I had met on the plane. When I suggested that she might like to look at our documents from Bangkok, she snapped: "I am far too busy to ask for papers. You should have showed them to me already" Oh welcome to London.
Of course, unlike Ladprao General Hospital, Her Majesty's Immigration Service has not been able to acquire ISO9002.

Actually we do not want to go, given the prevailing attitudes...but ..well for the child....Where is the evidence that the child is ill? Would you like to inspect her colostomy? No. Where is the evidence? So we have that.

Where will you live. OK.
Next

You are not allowed to go to the UK on a tourist visa and then get married. Oh? Really? Who says? If that is true, how come we were able to do it? Oh, the Registrars cannot be expected to know that you are acting illegally. Oh, where does it say this? It does not. It says you should apply for a fiancee/marriage visa. Why? Oh then we can charge you a lot more money. Is the marriage valid? Oh of course. We cannot invalidate a properly conducted marriage......................

And we are rich, white, well educated..................

How did one get to be so ANGRY?????!!

Tuesday, April 01, 2003

Just in case one believes one's personal tragedies are all embracing......there are othersKenzaburo Oe - Personally speaking And he is a great fan of RS. His most recent novel is awash with quotations!