So much seems to have happened; and while it was happening there seemed no time to write about it
There are swathes of thoughts from our stay in France, which have a peculiar autumnal melancholy about them as we sit here watching the rage of young men on the streets of Clichy. Now wonder K says there is no reason to return to either France or the UK. However were the South of Thailand to come closer to the North then there might be no reasons to be here either. Perhaps M. Sarkozy and M.Thaksin would like to exchange views. I am sure they would find they have a lot in common
So we have come back to Sukothai.
To me this seems like something of a relief…though I had no desire to leave Sarn. I will return to this!
Our French adventure was, shall we say, interesting! What did we learn? Kate learned French at top speed, we were all bored to bits..but that, I think, because of where we were. Rural France stuck in the 1950’s with the addition of massive 21st Century farm vehicles was probably never going to be to our taste. I remember the look of horror on Michelle’s face, when we asked if she had thought of living there! Not Lyon! Palleau is very beautiful and the treasured house, full of memories… and histories more so. We felt very privileged to have been a brief part of its history ! We felt our way into it all and sat and gardened and lived…but…even in Poleymieux where Elsi spent her childhood it did not seem we had any reason to be there..nor in Chamonix and Chambery..other places with family connections.
So, we travelled, in France, and to Spain and Portugal..in search of something! We bought tents we never used and the aged Benz purred round Europe. I guess the nicest places we found were Ceret outside Perpignan where we had been with Matty 30 years ago..but now too many Brits…the hidden Costa Brava of Aiguablanca and Vigo..a stunning place. We went from Beaune to Montpellier and Perpignan, Barcelona, Malaga, Sevilla, Faro, Oporto, Vigo, Castillana del Mar, Bayonne, Perpignan…at top speed!....We had tremendous times in Spain and Portugal…memorable meals n beached restaurants, even amazing Chinese food. We had dancing and fireworks, fado and Basque singers. Elodie ran and laughed in the wide sea and coming through Perpignan and Perigueux we thought…these are the two most boring places we have been in for three weeks!!
We might have gone on…to Italy and Greece..to Germany, even, but it occurred to us, one day, that we, too, had a beautiful house by the seaside and we had better go and live in it..so we did…much to Elodie’s delight…so probably not the wrong decision.
We will go back to Germany, Venice, Greece. All we were looking for, really was a school and a place. No big cities, no rural dumps. The languages are a problem for Kate, let alone me and what does it mean to go to school in many of these places?...Not that they are not in all cases better than Walsall. But are they better than Pen Llyn? Answers on a p/c please.
So we came back here to see Granny and to speak some Thai. We went to Chiang Mai and nearly bought a house..but I cannot quite commit myself to a bourgeois Thai housing estate..give me time!
Then I went back to Phuket.
Kalim is a desert..eveything razed in preparation for some mammoth housing project..Patong a building site..they must be trying to create 20 new ‘Spas’ at least. I felt so sorry for the lost tourists wandering in this chaos..and of course it was raining 24/24 as ever! Patong has been transformed from the small village of unpaved roads that I knew into an unpleasant mixture of huge hotels and a scrubby new Thai town the whole length of Soi Nanai
Phuket Town though grows more attractive. It is to Phuket as Corte is to Corsica. Once you get away from the sea there is a real life to be lived. And now it has schools, Makro, Robinson and Central..all new!
M took me to see her daughter’s school. A bilingual school with the curriculum looking sorted out, qualified teachers, small classes….For Thailand it actually looks like a place a child might learn something. Neither government regimentation nor European ostentation. She has endless problems with the school and the authorities because, of course, she is Lao not Thai. And even though her daughter was born in Phuket she has yet, aged 6, to achieve Thai citizenship. This nonsense is repeated all over the north of Thailand where thousands of Hmong, Akha and other hill tribe children are being persistently discriminated against and exploited by the Thais even though they have lived in what is now ‘Thailand’ for generations. Thai racism extends widely-to Issan people, and certainly to southern Muslims, whose land after all did not become part of Siam until the first years of the C20.
Thai culture and Thai nationalism are very strong. There is no denying the vigorous and exciting range and depth of its characteristics. It is locally as English is more broadly..a dominant phenomenon.
I was in Hollywood Awards in BKK the other night with some 3000 Thai youths and girls in their 20’s. A commonality of cultural norms, shared songs and experiences was huge..very powerful…everyone knew the words and tunes to every song, every one knew exactly who every singer and performer was…
Coming back through BKK I stopped to see my friend P. She says she wants to go home to Uttaradit..but needs to stay for business. I should think there is a chance that BKK will be the New Orleans of Asia. Now there is talk of a floating city in Phuket and a new city at the new BKK airport..all appears awful.
Sukothai and the hinterland of Bali let alone Phuket sound better.
So E is going to go to school! What a long way we have come.
Here I go with my ABC and my numbers and Thai letters..all of which she knows…very full of myself. She might well come home after the first day and tell us that that is enough..been there done that! She keeps checking she can go to school in her ’seaside’ too when we go (or is it come?) back.
So in case you thought we ate nothing in France…..you could try some of these!!
May 5 Jambon de Bayonne
Le Cassolet des coquilles et moules
Andouillette (Laon)
May 6 Macquereaux a la grillade
La macedoine des courgettes et tomates (Lyon)
May 7 Jambon Persille
Steak Tartare
Salade Nicoise (Beaune)
Kaeng Keow Wan
Soupe Chinoise (Palleau)
Legumes braises au facon Thai
May 8 Les Merguez
Jambon Persille de Verdun
Salade verte (Palleau)
Pasta Sauce au volaille Thai
Fraises
May 9 Saute de Porc au menthe et champignons a la crème
Le Riz
Salade de Chicons
May 10 Sandwich Jambon Persille et Moutarde
Sandwich Camembert et Mango Chutney
Saute de Noix de St. Jacques et Coques
Cervelle de Veau en bouillon
Les Pommes de terre
Salade de Chicons et tomates
May11 Pla Khaem Kao Tom
Pintadeau-Sauce Orange
Riz
Carrottes Sucres
Les Asperges
Petits pots au Chocolat
May 12 Nouilles Thai (Mama!)
Les Chipirons et Les Noix de St. Jacques Sauce au Vin Blanc
Le Riz
May 13 Les Artichauts
Nouilles Thai (Mama!) aux Legumes
Sandwich Pintadeau Mango Chutney
Assiette de Pintadeau Froid, Museau de Porc et Salamis
Salade de Chicons et Cornichons
May 14 Risotto des Crevettes
Poulet Fermier Poele
Les Pommes de Terre a vapeur
Les Epinards
Sauce aux Tomates Provencales
May 15 Salade des Crevettes
Casserole de Porc au Vin Blanc avec Pois Chiches
Tarte aux Fraises
May 16 Le Coq au Vin
Pommes Mousselines
Les Haricots Verts
Les Fruits
Le Fromage-Comte et Brie
May 17 Couscous au Poulet Fermier
Les Courgettes, Les Carottes, Les Navets
May 18 Salade composee de Cervelles de Porc, Chicons et Cornichons
Pizza facon Thomas-Sauce aux Tomates de Vigne, Oignons Rouges, Ail, Herbes de Provence, Fromage Emmenthal, Olives Noirs, Anchois
Tarte aux Framboises
May 19 Salade de Chicons et Anchois
Assiette de Rosette de Lyon et Salamis
Soupe Menerboise
Fromage
Tarte de Pommes
May 20 Salade de Museau de Porc
Blanquette de Lapin
Riz au Saffron
Les Haricots Verts
Les Fruits
May 21 Pasta au Jus de Lapin
Le Veau Roti aux Pommes de terre et Les Herbes
Les Flageolets
Les Carottes Sucree
May 22 Salade de Chicons et du Thon
Risotto de Foie de Volailles
Pommes de Terre Sautees
Le Fenouil au Citron
Sauce aux Tomates
May 23 Jambon de Bayonne
Salade Vert
Pintade au Yaourt et Citron(BBQ)
Sauce Chamignons
Le Riz
May 24 Salade des Haricots, Oeufs, Anchois
Crevettes Thai
Le Riz
May 25 Lotte Sauce Provencale
Les Haricots Verts
Broccoli
May 26 Sautee de Porc Thai
Les Navets
Le Melon
May 27 Salade de Crevettes et Noix de St. Jacques
Salade de Tomates et Mozzarella
Le Thon avec Tapenade de Oregane
Les Asperges Violets Sauce Nantua
Les Fruits (Jean et Michelle)
May 28 On the Road
May 29 On the Road….ie Salami, Bread, Cheese, Prawns
May 30 Cotelette de Veau Grillee
Les Haricots Verts
May 31 Merguez et Poulet Grillee (BBQ)
Pommes Frites
Salade Vert
June 1 Filets de Sandre
Sauce Moules
Les Eclairs
June 2 Pintadeau Grillee(BBQ)
Poivrons Rouge
Le Riz
Tarte Citron
June 3 Salade de thon aux haricots
Les Raviolis aux fromages
Sauce aux champignons
Cerises
June 4 Soupe de Poissons et Sa Rouille
Assiettes de Salamis
Les Crudites
Les Pigeons aux Poivrons Rouges
Les Pommes de Terre Etuvees
Les haricots Verts
June 5 Salades de Tomates et Mozarella
Les Haricots Verts au Vapeur
L’Agneau au Miel et les Epices du Maghreb
Les Fromages (a Paul et Roslyn a Corgengoux)
Les Maqueraux a l’Ail au four
Sauces aux Cornichons
Les Epinards
June 6 Assiettes des Fromages et Saucissons
Le Poulet de Bresse
Sauce a la Crème
Les Pommes de Terre au Vapeur
Le Choux Fleur
Tarte aux abricots
June 7 Les Rougets
Pommes Frites
Sauce Remoulade
Legumes et Porc Thai
Le Riz
June 8 Les Asperges
Les Fromages
Salade
Canard aux Cerises
Mousseline des Pommes de Terre
Tomates Farcies
June 9 Pates Sauce Cannette
Roti de Porc
Les Carottes
Epinards aux Tomates
Mousseline de Pommes de Terres
June 10 Pates au beurre
Les Cailles
Sauce Poivron Rouge
Les Frites de Celeri Rave
June 11 Salade des Crevettes
Salade des Pommes de Terre
La Raie au Beurre Noire
Les Petits Pois
Pommes de Terre au Vapeur
Les Cerises Summit
June 12 Soupe Chinoise
Au Poulet de Bresse
Riz
Melon de Cavaillon
June 13 Pasta Sauce Tomates
Les Asperges Violets
Salade Verte
June 14 Le Jarret de Porc Demi Salee
Son Jus au Vin Blanc
Pommes de Terre
Celeri
June 15 Le Boeuf Bourguignon
Pommes de Terre
Fenouil au Citron
June 16 Darne de Julienne
Sauce Hollandaise
Riz
Les Courgettes aux Tomates
June 17 Pasta
Sauce Boeuf Bourguignon
Les Huitres Fines Claires
Travers de Porc Chinoises
Le Riz
Melon de Cavaillon
June 18 Salade de Concombres et Coppa
Jarret de Jambon Roti
Salade Escarole
Cerises
Entrecote Grille
Andouillette Grille
Les Haricots Verts
Nectarines et Abricots de Provence
June 19
Steaks Haches
Saucissons de Volaille
Pommes Frites
Salsa
Les Petits Pois
Nectarines et Abricots de Provence
Then June 20 we went to Spain and Portugal…Perpignan, dire food, St Feliciu..excellent supper of Ham, Moules and fish..unfortunately had to eat it on my own as everyone else exhausted by the site of Aiguablava…Cueller-Chinese Food!, Montril-excellent fish on the beach-Monchique-mad BBQ-Oporto-more excellent fish on the river-Vigo-best fish-Santillana-Omelettes with Chanterelles-Terrines of Fish and Cheese, good Beef, Monkfish with Balsamic Vinegar..hmm……, more fish…went to Carrefour in Bayonne to buy picnic..fish much better than Chalon..in fact everything…however looked forward to supper in Perigueux.but….failed to eat as menus so dire..even the Chinese Restaurant was pulling up the floorboards..Just as well we had a chicken and a couple of bottles tucked up in the icebox!
So we found nowhere anything much to eat
We had endless picnics, ate good fish in Spain and thought the fish in the shops pretty good. Returning home via Perigueux, the cite des truffes, we found only lazy salads composes of the kind you would not even think of in Covent Garden…so we arrived home in need of Vegetables!!
June 30 Les Aubergines aux Tomates
Haricots Verts
Pommes de Terre Etovees
Champignons a la Creme
July 1 Garbure
Choufleur au Piments
Courgettes au Rosmarin
July 2 Salade des Haricots, Oeufs, Pommes de Terre, Anchois
Gigot de Lotte Rotie
Sauce au Capres
Les Courgettes
July 3 Le Canard Grille
Tomates Farcies
Salade de Chicons
July 4 Les Bulots et Les Crevettes Nam Jim
Les Ailes de Poulet facon Thai
Le Riz
Legumes facon Thai
Salade Verte
July 5 Gigot d’Agneau
Sauce aux Abricots et Epices de Maroc
Le Riz
Les Haricots d’Espagne
Fromages
July 6 Les Ravioilis de Tomates et Basilisc
Les Coteletes de Veau
Les Broccolis au Beurre
Tarte de Framboises
July 07 Pak Nam Prik
Soupe des Celeris
Langue de Boeuf
Sauce Madere
Pommes de Terre Vapeur
Poireaux au Vin Rouge
July 8 Crudites
Saucisses d’Auvergne
Tom Yum Gai
Le Riz/
Les Andouillettes de Troyes
Sauce Poivrons Rouges
July 9 Moules au Vin Blanc
Les Pieds et Paquets
Salade Vert
July 10 Osso Bucco alla Milanese
Risotto
Tomates Noirs
July 11 Boeuf Stroganoff
Pommes Sautees
Les Courgettes
July 12 Truites au bleu
Pommes Vapeurs
Les Haricots au Beurre(Jaune)
July 13 Cervelles De Porc
Le Veau a la Creme
Pommes de Terre
Haricots Verts du Jardin
July 14 Le BBQ du 14 Juillet Palleau…Oh Dear
July15 Cotelettes de Veau
Sauce Chamipgnons a la Creme
July 16 Grillade de Pintadeau Citon Verts
Sauce Poivrons Rouges Tomates Noirs
July 17 Salade des Maqueraux
Lapin au Safran
Le Riz
